Saturday, 18 October 2014

Ebola and Gorillas: Part ll

It is a beautiful Saturday in Victoria.  I am home drinking a coffee and waiting for the sun to dry my lawn a bit more so I can mow it this afternoon.  Time to update the blog.

Ebola:  The last time I went to Africa, anytime I would say to someone "I am going to Africa" they would say "Wow, that's awesome".  Now when I say I am going to Africa, they say "But you will die of Ebola! Are you crazy?."  No I won't.  Perhaps I am but not because of Ebola.  Which leads to the Gorillas.

Gorilla Trek:  This is plodding along now to the point I am worried I am a bigger idiot than most suspect/know.  Jenny gave Melissa's info to Francis Sentongo, some guy in Uganda who says he will be my guide.  Francis sent me an itinerary for a 9 day tour of Uganda.  It sounded pretty awesome.  But I didn't want to go for that long, I was thinking a weekend.  So he sent me a three day version, which is basically Day 1: travel, Day 2: gorillas, Day 3: travel.  That wasn't nearly so enticing as the 9 day version.  So, I proposed a 6 day trip cutting out some of the non-gorilla, more safari-type stuff and the tour of a city (big urban centres in poor countries all look depressingly the same).  Plus, cutting down the days reduced the price by a third. 

I asked a few questions.  (this is where my potential idiocy may have first become apparent).  The name of his tour company is Afrtrek or that might be a typo and it is Afritrek.  Either way, it doesn't exist on the internet.  This led to another question.  Who will be on this 'tour' with me.  Well, it turns out it will just be me and Francis except on Bwindi (park with the gorillas) days.  Is this guy going to kill and/or rob me?  Maybe but I am still going forward with this crazy plan.  Just imagine if he doesn't kill/rob me how amazing it will be!

I read up a bit on what to expect about the gorilla trek.  As regular readers of my blogs know, I hate climbing mountains yet I always seem to be doing just that on my trips.  It turns out that Mountain Gorillas live on mountains.  Seriously, this should be made clearer for tourists!  Who is the marketing team for these gorillas?  Ok, I am not that stupid.  But the tourist comments on Trip Advisor has completely differing views on what will be involved in getting to the Gorillas.  Some commenters mention almost dying on the many hour trek up the mountain, others mention a leisurely stroll across a short, flat distance. 

It turns out either version, or any point in between, may be true. Apparently, there are 6 or 7 gorilla families and the hike will depend on which family you view and where they are that day. Each family can only be visited by a few people once a day for one hour.   A specific person's trek will depend on which gorillas they will be seeing and where that family group is located on the mountain.  But some commenters also mentioned that the Bwindi guides suss out the tourists at the bottom of the mountain and divide the groups by ability to get to the different groups.  I asked Francis about this in an email.  When I called him, he had checked with the guides and he assured me that it is true.  So, I may not have to die to see my gorilla family (at least not from the climb, guerillas/shady guides are still possibilities). 

The limits on visitors is the reason for the permits.  If all of the spots are filled, you can't go until there is an opening.  Everyone agrees that it is important to buy the permit as far in advance as possible to avoid missing out.  Permits are $350 US in Uganda ($750 in Rwanda).  Francis has to buy my permit before I arrive. Which means I have to send Francis some money.  And a copy of my passport (more evidence for the trial of guilt in the crime of idiocy).

Pro tip:  Don't joke about Uganda swindlers to the Western Union lady.  She may not send your money.  Plus, be prepared for another Ebola lesson.  (Ebola lesson aside, I appreciate the concern. It is probably warranted).

I sent my copy of the passport.  I went to Western Union to send $400 US to Francis's home phone number (this also did not please Western Union lady).  It turns out that Western Union has limits on the amount and the currency that can be sent to Uganda.  Maximum $400 Canadian (not quite $350 US) and it has to be 'received' as Ugandan Schillings.  It turned out to be almost a million schillings.  Either Francis has a bit of a windfall, or if he is smart, he will hold out for double that amount in guide fees.  He emailed and said he got the money yesterday and that he would get the permit and email me a copy but it hasn't arrived yet.  So, I guess time will tell.  At worst (at this point) it all makes for an amusing, yet expensive, blog post. 

(Backtrack) Back in the pre-money, planning phase, Francis proposed a start date of Nov 6.  I asked Anke what she thought of this.  This is when I learned that the schools will be finishing their year two weeks into my trip.  If I go to Uganda on November 6, I will only spend one week with the kids and miss out on their end of year festivities.  So, I emailed Francis and he just moved the whole thing to Nov 16.  Too easy?  Or just part of the benefits of being on my own tour?  I'll let you know.

Couple of short updates/anecdotes:

I had a lovely weekend away with my friend Judy (from my India trip) and her family to celebrate Judy's birthday in Seaside, Oregon.  At some point, I pulled something in my back and now I am somewhat hobbled.  I am frantically visiting my massage therapist and a physiotherapist (Avril and Sean, respectively; both as Cook Street Village Health Centre and both awesome) to try to get back to regular mobility.  It is getting better but still not perfect. 

I called the bank on Thursday on my lunch break to pre-order some Kenyan money.  But, I guess I still had most of my brain on work because the RBC guy said it would take three days to arrive, it wouldn't be in until Tuesday.  Never mind, I said, I am leaving that day.  Somehow I just forgot about next week.  I will have to call them again on Monday.  I really have to start writing lists.

Important things: I started reading the latest Game of Thrones book (yes, GoT purists, I know it is Song of Ice and Fire, I don't care).  It is over 1000 pages.  I have 200 to go before I leave.  Figure out how to use podcasts so I can load up the IPod Melissa gave me.  Figure out what I have room to record on my PVR for a whole month.  Buy snacks for the plane.  Who says I can't write lists. 

I was going to update my packing woes too but as usual this post is too long.  And I am finished my coffee and the grass is dry and the sun is still out.  It is good to remember on a sunny day such as this how lucky I am.  I get to see the world but I always know that when/if I return it will be to Victoria, the most beautiful place on earth. 

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