(I am trying to upload this from Lake Mburo National Park in Uganda. I may not be able to get many pictures posted).
As the trend goes, the day started poorly and then improved
greatly. It was kindergarten graduation
day at Jipe Moyo. Apparently this is a
big deal. Anke, Alina and I were heading
out early. We had to pick up some of the
teachers from Kencada on the way. We
booked a van pick up for 6:30am. Guess
who arrived? Raz. I happened to read a quote last night and
kept it because it is so apt:
"When you
just see somebody on the street, they can really have an aura. But then when
they open their mouth, there goes the aura."
That’s Raz. White
Masai life averted.
(a day later – it is 4am and I am in Mombasa airport
waiting for my 5:30 flight to Nairobi then onto Entebbe, Uganda).
Back to Thursday.
Raz showed up but not with his van.
Instead he had his own car and another guy in his car. We were taking the back route, it was too
late to take the port route but those two cars were not going to make it over
those bad roads. So, on our way to
Kencada, Anke found another driver with a van to pick us up at Kencada. I am starting to realize why she keeps a
corral of contacts with good will.
Always have a back up.
Once we finally got going, the drive was uneventful. We arrived a bit late but I have come to
realize that Kenyans have infinite patience, at least the ones in the ones who
live around Jipe Moyo.
I had no idea what to expect. This was a kindergarten graduation so I
didn’t expect much. I was wrong. This was a full community party. We arrived at 10, about when the activities were
scheduled to start. People were already
there, waiting. No one seemed to bat an
eye that the 10am start was wildly inaccurate.
Canada time is not Kenya time. Or
maybe I didn’t understand the schedule, that is very likely as well.
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These ladies were already
waiting at 10am |
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This was about 10:30 |
There was a tent and chairs set up. The kitchen was busy at work. They were making Pilou. This is a rice dish with spices and
meat. I have never seen such a big
pot. I think someone said 40
gallons. No one was going hungry
today. They even had a special
cook. We watched the Pilou proceedings. Remember, they are cooking 40 gallons of food
for a couple of hundred people over a fire!
First, the fire was lit. Then the
spices were roasted over the fire. Then
the spices were ground by hand in a huge mortar and pestle. All the while, oil heating in the huge
pot. Add onions, then meat. Then
spices. This all took about 45
minutes. I missed them adding the rice
but I wandered by to see it cooking, with everyone taking a turn at stirring.
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Huge pot over open fire. |
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Getting the spices ready |
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Cooking the spices under the pot
They used leaves as oven gloves to get it out. |
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Grinding the spices.
Note the matching dresses. It was a big day. |
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Ready to go into the pot |
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Stirring the meat and onions |
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Everyone took turns |
When we had arrived all of the teachers were already there,
dressed in what I thought was the nines.
But while I was watching the cooks, the teachers all changed into
matching outfits. And their hair! I don’t know how they did it in a classroom
with no mirror but they had all transformed their hair into Oscar Night
Hair. Full makeup and long dresses. I should mention that the kitchen staff,
working in a mud hut, also had matching outfits, just not as spectacular as the
teachers’ gowns. The kids even got all gussied up. Many of the girls had had their hair braided or beaded. Some had yarn extensions. Did I mention that graduation day is a big deal.
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Matching gowns. |
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Coloured elastics
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Eventually, the festivities started around 11:30 or so (I
didn’t have my watch so I never quite know what time it is). Everyone found a seat under the open
tent. Front row reserved for special
guests, including me. I’m not sure who people thought I was. The word was that I was a representative of
Sam’s family. I didn’t feel this was
accurate as I don’t know them that well and I certainly didn’t want to
misrepresent myself but it was just too difficult to explain the connections so
there I was, special guest.
Each class had prepared a poem or a sketch or a song (or all
of them). We got through the first
couple. The kids are adorable of
course. Each part was prefaced with “We
stand before you, class of (grade) to present to you a poem/song/drama. Welcome”.
Eventually, 15 minutes, 30 minutes, it became obvious that
this was not going to let up quickly, so those who could made a run for the
classrooms. For a while, teachers
shuttled back and forth with umbellas to ‘rescue’ those less mobile. Alina and I kept an eye on the Pilou from the
window. We were already hungry and the
fire was out!
Then we finished up with some speechifying. One official, I
have no idea who, went on forever. Then
a quick wrap up by Anke. And the rain
stopped. Time for lunch.
(sorry, two day break.
I have been in Uganda for two days and just got back from my Gorilla
Tracking. Next blog, I promise. But my pictures are awful – and I’m not just
saying that to fish for future compliments).
It is hard to concentrate on what happened days ago after
today but the Graduation was so much fun, I have to finish.
Once the speechifying was done and the certificates handed
out, the rain had stopped. Now it was
time to eat our Pilou.
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ready to go
enough for everyone |
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Our plates with hot chili sauce |
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Who needs a fork |
I guess they got
the fire started again. All of the
community men and the special guests (anyone who wasn’t a community woman or child) sat in one room
with the women and children in another.
I don’t know where the students were, I think outside or under the
tent. The men got served first.
Each had a plate and got a pop. We got the same. But no cutlery. Alina and I waited a bit for our forks to
arrive but since none were forthcoming and everyone else had started to eat
with their hands, so did we. We also
were not provided with a bottle opener.
The men were opening their pop with their teeth. That wasn’t going to happen at our
table. I learned a new skill that day,
opening a bottle cap with a table edge and my flat palm. I impressed everyone including myself. Orange Fanta, the perfect accompaniment with
Pilou!
Once the men and special guests ate, the women and children,
who sat quietly and patiently, were provided with platters to share. No individual plates. No pop.
It sucks to be a woman in rural Kenya.
But no one complained. Everyone
looked so serious. I wondered if they
were just there for the food because no one looked like they were having
fun. But then lunch ended and everyone
moved outside and that all changed.
I am probably forgetting something but I will be reminded
when I look at my pictures and hopefully post this one day.
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Goodbye Jipe Moyo. Until next time! |
That was on Thursday.
Then on Saturday, the Kencada kids had their graduation ceremony. As I have mentioned, Jipe Moyo is poor and
rural. Kencada is urban and middle
class. The differences really showed in
their graduations. The Kencada kids are
also older so their songs, poems and dramas were much more elaborate. Plus, oddly, they had a fashion show. Then
the teachers and parents walked the catwalk.
I cannot see this happening in Canada.
Once the ceremony was over, Alina and I manned the Kencada
swag ‘for sale’ booth. We sold an
umbrella and some backpacks. We were
quite proud of ourselves. Clean up and
home. I was so tired, I couldn’t join
Anke, Alina and the teachers for a Yul’s celebratory dinner. I went home and had a long nap.
(I was going to post some Kencada grad photos but I am out of time. Night safari starts soon,
Update: Photos posted a day later.)
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There were some pretty elaborate costumes
I think this was Army or Police? |
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Baby class signs a song |
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An incredibly elaborate 'doctor' sketch |
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The kindergarten grad class |
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Fashion show
She was dressed as a 'Nubian' |
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Much sparser attendance than Jipe Moyo |
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Need an umbrella? How about a mug? |
The next day, I was off to Uganda.
I love your words and the pics. The men, women, and children look so wonderful in their beautiful bright colours. It's inspiring me to toss my wardrobe of black. Colour me happy - Salvation Army Thrift Store here I come ! Armed with your pics of the beautiful people you are spending time with ...
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